UNFORGETTABLE LOCATIONS: Around Croatia
While not the capital of Croatia, Dubrovnik is the country’s best-known city and a top global tourist destination. Set on the Adriatic coast, the Old Town is a UNESCO World Heritage site and its immediate surroundings have much to offer for those seeking exquisite natural environs, an active holiday or total relaxation. (Not to mention superb ice cream!)
Our director Karen took a late summer holiday with her husband to explore Dubrovnik and its islands on a self-guided cycling trip…
We both enjoy holidays that blend outdoor activity with local culture, and a taste of luxury on the side, so south Croatia seemed a clear choice. We’re into responsible travel, and had in mind an itinerary that would include different experiences that the region is known for, using a local travel expert to connect us with family-owned guesthouses and transport links.
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Cycling & Islands
The areas around Dubrovnik along with its islands are fantastic for sailing, cycling and kayaking. We used Epic Croatia, a local company that can arrange tours for all tastes and budgets.
Starting on the mainland, we cycled around South East of Dubrovnik including Konavle, where the River Ludja runs through the valley; it is renowned for agriculture, organic farming, olive oil and Malvasia Bianca wine, a deliciously fresh dry white. We then took on the challenging Pelješac Peninsula, a cycle route north-west of the city with hilly terrain and steady climbs, where a cardio workout was rewarded with breath-taking views of the glistening Adriatic Sea.
Our next stop was Korcula Island, where the fortified town of Korcula (nicknamed ‘Little Dubrovnik’) is said to be the birthplace of Marco Polo. With a fascinating history, gorgeous views, vineyards and beaches the island is a great place to spend a couple of days. We loved the café culture vibe in the village of Lumbarda.
For a completely different experience, Mljet Island is said to be the greenest island of Croatia so an essential stop for nature lovers. It’s incredibly beautiful, and famous for its white and red wine…correction, we mean its National Park! The Large and Small saltwater lakes in the centre of the reserve draw people seeking a scenic escape from city life. We had an idyllic couple of days here.
We also spent a day cycling on Šipan Island, a ferry ride from Dubrovnik. One of the Elaphiti islands, it is a lush relaxed resort, dotted with the remains of summer houses owned by 15th century aristocracy. Here we stumbled upon an idyllic secluded beach and bar at the neck of the island, close to the village ofŠipanska Luka, and delighted in the beautifully clear, turquoise water.
Lokrum Island is also a short ferry ride from Dubrovnik Old Port and worth seeing for its botanical gardens and Benedictine monastery ruins.
Dubrovnik
Dubrovnik is an historic and cultural feast; it’s like being in a mythological city (Game of Thrones fans may recognise it as the setting for Kings Landing). The Old Town was partially built in the Middle Ages when the Republic of Ragusa (Dubrovnik at that time) had strong maritime trade, development and economy. The old city’s walls were built to protect it from sea and land attack; even as recently as the 1990’s it has had need of protection from hostile forces. It really is a jewel, with incredibly well-preserved historic structures. Walking through Pile City Gate is like stepping back in time.
We recommend taking in an awe-inspiring sunset at the Zenith Bar at Hotel Kompas, or any number of bars along the beach front, or just beach itself - all unbeatable. Sunset at the top of Dubrovnik Cable car is also lovely, as is a walk along the Lapad Bay coastline to the harbour.
There are any number of festivals to let your hair down in Croatia. The country’s wonderful setting and great summers are fast attracting many more festivals and festival goers. Not all are about music, some have a cultural emphasis such as the St. Blaise Festival in February, as well as the yearly Summer Festival held in Dubrovnik.
Stay
Dubrovnik has more to offer in the mid to high-end accommodation choices than its surrounding areas - no surprise really, with a thriving summer tourism industry. Some of the 4 and 5 * hotels are in the Adriatic Luxury Hotels portfolio, including Hilton Dubrovnik, where Kristy and I assisted with the new suites.
In other areas, the family owned guesthouses were clean and spacious. A favourite was Koraćeva Kuća in Konavle, which had excellent food and a beautiful setting with views of the valley. We had one of our best meals here.
Eat + drink
Croatians enjoy a Mediterranean diet with plenty of fish dishes, which some might say their good health is attributed to. Dubrovnik Old Town restaurants cater for a huge tourist population, but there are still some great finds including Lady Pipi, an outdoor restaurant set up in the stepped town with views over the Old Town. It is only open in the warmer months and doesn’t take bookings, so prepare to queue!
Perhaps unexpected for a tourist attraction, we discovered the Panorama Restaurant at the top of the Dubrovnik Cable car had good food and service, with a lovely view over Dubrovnik and the Adriatic Sea - what more could you ask for? Go there at sunset if you can.
Another touristy restaurant with good food and service in our experience, was the Gradska kavana Arsenal restaurant, set in the arches of the Old Port. This was where Dubrovnik’s arsenal was stored in the Middle Ages (does the name give it away?).
The restaurants at Hotel Kompas and Hotel Excelsior at Lapad Beach (Sunset beach) serve delicious food with varied menus, a refreshing break from the ubiquitous fish. Next door to Hotel Kompas, we recommend stopping in for the most delicious ice cream.
Some of our best and most welcome meals were while cycling. In the River Ljuta valley we came across a delightful restaurant, Konoba Vinica, after a long uphill ride. On terraced outdoor seating above the tranquil river we enjoyed good food under the shade surrounded by feline companions. In Orebic, after our toughest ride, we didn’t have much expectation for the restaurant that we stumbled into at the ferry port, but were pleasantly surprised by Pizzeria la Casa. As you might expect, there are a lot of Italian favourites on most menus in Croatia!
Mljet Island wasn’t our favourite island for food, but that might be because we missed serving times for supper after getting caught in the nature reserve trying to catch an extraordinary sunset. A warning about eating in areas outside of the city – wasps love the outdoor café dining just as much as we do!
Links
https://www.adriaticluxuryhotels.com/en
https://www.responsibletravel.com/
https://sunsetbeachdubrovnik.hr/
http://www.dubrovnikcablecar.com/panorama-restaurant/
http://www.nautikarestaurants.com/gradska-kavana-arsenal/
https://www.likealocalguide.com/dubrovnik/dolce-vita
https://foursquare.com/v/lady-pipi/4c3c497186ce328fe87bab2d
https://www.croatiagems.com/konoba-more/
https://www.mljettravel.com/national-park/
https://www.visit-croatia.co.uk/festivals-croatia/
https://croatia.hr/en-GB/Activities-and-attractions/Events/NewEvents/dubrovnik-summer-festival-0